Monthly Archives: June 2014

Use Benzoin Oil for Congestion and Lower Respiratory Conditions

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Use Benzoin Oil for Congestion and Lower Respiratory ConditionsAmong the many essential oils derived from tree resins, there is a little-known product known variously as benzoin essential oil, styrax oil, or storax oil. You may have heard these terms in different places, but they all refer to the same botanical product. Benzoin essential oil is steam distilled from a resinous exudation produced by trees in the Styrax genus, and is used to make incense, food flavorings, and perfume fixatives.

The genus Styrax contains several species of trees, both deciduous and evergreen, that are native to warm and tropical regions of the Northern Hemisphere; most Styrax species are found in Southeast Asia, but some occur in South America as well [1]. With so many different species of Styrax trees out there, it’s more important than ever to know which varieties produce a useful essential oil, so you can arm yourself with that knowledge when it comes time to make a purchase. The two species in the Styrax genus from which an essential oil is produced commercially are Styrax tonkinensis (found in peninsular Southeast Asia–Laos, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam) and Styrax benzoin (from Sumatra) [1]. This article will use the term “benzoin” interchangeably to refer to both varieties.

The resin of S. tonkinensis—also called “Siam” benzoin—is reddish yellow on the outside with a milky white interior; it contains up to 40% benzoic acid, along with benzoresinol, siaresinotannol, and vanillin, giving it a lighter, more vanilla-like scent. It is much more frequently used in perfumery and food flavoring than the “Sumatra” variety S. benzoin, which produces a reddish gray resin with a sharper, more balsamic scent due to a higher content of cinnamic acid [2]. However, both forms of benzoin essential oil have valuable fixative properties in perfumery, as well as expectorant, emollient, and calming properties when used in aromatherapy [2].

The Arabic name for benzoin is luban jawi, or literally, “frankincense from Java”; this ancient name points to the role of benzoin resin and oil in the ancient world as an incense ingredient and medicine that was equated with frankincense oil. Official records of the international trade in benzoin date from the Middle Ages, but the linguistic and archaeological evidence suggests benzoin was important in the Western world far earlier than that. The Phoenicians were importing the resin of a Styrax (probably Styrax officinalis) into Greece from the Ancient Near East before the common era, and benzoin resin has been one candidate proposed for nataf, a component of the sacred Hebrew incense recorded in the Old Testament [3]. Later on, the Orthodox Christian Church burned benzoin resin as incense along with other rich middle notes such as opoponax and labdanum; various Styraxes also show up in Heberew rituals and in the Muslim world. One interesting use of benzoin was actually as a “snake repellent”: farmers in the Middle East burned bowls of benzoin during the frankincense harvest to drive away snakes that were believed to guard the trees [3]!

Medicinal uses for benzoin included as a skin antiseptic and mild emollient for irritated skin, an expectorant agent, and an analgesic for sore joints [2]. Though usually benzoin resin was dissolved into a tincture to treat these conditions, the essential oil could also be inhaled, especially to treat bronchitis and other lower respiratory infections. The Muslim physician Avicenna (Ibn Sina) even recommended a combination of benzoin resin with other antiseptic oils as a dental amalgam to replace lost or damaged teeth [3]!

Today, aromatherapists will sometimes use benzoin essential oil in dilution to treat sore joints, chapped or dry skin, coughs, bronchitis, and stress-related conditions [4]. Benzoin has a rich grounding scent that is calming to the psyche, making it useful for alleviating anxious states of mind induced by stress; it is traditionally associated with opening the root chakra in Buddhist meditation practices [5].

Benzoin oil should always be diffused or used in dilution for topical applications, to avoid possible skin sensitization. Blending best with resinous, woody and citrus oils, benzoin oil yields an intriguing aroma that may be suitable for meditation when mixed with frankincense, myrrh, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, and vetiver [5]. For a brighter, more uplifting scent with pleasant “orange” notes, combine benzoin oil with citruses such as bergamot, mandarin, tangerine, or sweet orange oil!

REFERENCES

1. “Benzoin Resin”. Wikipedia. Accessed May 20th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzoin_resin.

2. Grieve, M. “A Modern Herbal | Benzoin”. Accessed May 20th, 2014. http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/b/benzoi31.html.

3. “Styrax”. Wikipedia. Accessed May 21st, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Styrax.

4. Lawless, Julia. 2013. The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils: The Complete Guide to the Use of Aromatic Oils in Aromatherapy, Herbalism, Health, and Well-Being. Conari Press.

5. “Styrax Benzoin Resin/Styrax Benzoin Absolute”. AromaWeb. Accessed May 22nd, 2014. http://www.aromaweb.com/essential-oils/benzoin-absolute.asp.

Oakmoss Oil – Perfumery’s Quintessential Base Note

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Oakmoss Oil- Perfumery's Quintessential Base NoteOakmoss essential oil is one of those perfume ingredients you see listed in so many articles on aromatherapy as well as ingredient lists; yet it is not often that readers get a clear definition of what oakmoss is. As the name suggests, oakmoss is commonly found on or near the trunks of mature oaks; however, it is not a moss but actually a lichen that grows on both deciduous and coniferous trees. Oakmoss essential oil has been distilled for use in perfumery since at least the 16th century, and its woody, almost animalic scent is still much valued as a base note in commercial fragrances [1].

The specific kind of lichen that yields genuine oakmoss essential oil is Evernia prunastri, a species native to the mountainous forests of the Northern Hemisphere, especially central and western Europe [2]. Growing on the trunks or branches of mature oaks and other trees, oakmoss lichen has strap-like branches called thalli that resemble deer antlers in shape. Oakmoss thalli are greenish gray and tough when dry, and turn a rubbery olive green when wet. Oakmoss essential oil is used extensively in perfumery today for its complex scent, which has been described as woody, sweet, and sharp. The aroma of oakmoss oil varies depending on whether it is distilled as an essential oil or a more concentrated absolute oil; the essential oil is generally considered to have a lighter scent, while the richer absolute oil possesses a muskier scent with an almost leathery undertone [3]. Oakmoss oil’s complex array of odors can even be affected by what type of tree the lichen is growing on: some oakmosses that grow on coniferous trees are specially sought for their turpentine-like base tones, which add a refreshing sharpness to specific perfumery blends.

Though not as historically famous an essence as labdanum, frankincense, or myrrh, archaeological evidence suggests that oakmoss oil was known in the ancient Mediterranean world: baskets full of dried oakmoss lichen have been discovered in Egyptian tombs, though it is unclear whether the lichen was being stored to make fragrances or as food [1]. A competing theory suggests that oakmoss, which contains a starchy edible substance inside its thalli, was being stored as a potential emergency food supply.

In North America, Native Americans called oakmoss lung wort or lung moss. Various tribes frequently dried the lichen and used it as a folk treatment for respiratory ailments such as respiratory congestion, irritation, chest cough, and even bronchitis [4]. The dried lichen was also used as a poultice to speed wound healing [4]. Though neither of these medicinal uses have yet been investigated for their effectiveness in a clinical setting, oakmoss’s traditional association with respiratory health does suggest some fascinating avenues for future research!

For the time being, it seems that oakmoss will continue to be sought after as a fixative, fragrance, and exotic perfume ingredient, especially in Oriental and “chypre”-type blends [3]. The traditional base note of fougère perfume, oakmoss essential oil is also commonly used as a fixative in blends and soaps, since its rich scent helps anchor more fleeting notes, especially citruses. In recent years, international regulations have limited the allowed amount of oakmoss oil in perfume blends to 0.1% after evidence came to light that it can be a dermal irritant in larger quantities [3].

So, when making your own blends it is also best to blend a minute quantity of oakmoss essential or absolute oil with other essential oils in a neutral base such as almond, jojoba or olive oil. Adding oakmoss oil to your blend will also allow you to take advantage of the oil’s prized fixative qualities! As mentioned above, oakmoss oil is stellar at anchoring more delicate scents in a fragrance blend and helping them last even longer. Ideal for bringing out tender floral and citrus notes such as lavender, neroli, and bergamot, oakmoss essential oil provides a comforting base note that can add dimension and intrigue to any fragrance.

REFERENCES
1. “Oak Moss”. Encyclopaedia Britannica Online. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/423437/oak-moss.

2. “Evernia prunastri”. Wikipedia. Last modified June 6th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evernia_prunastri.

3. Milojevic, Marina. “Oakmoss Perfume Ingredient”. Fragrantica. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Oakmoss-39.html.

4. “Base Note Oils – Oakmoss Oil”. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://ladylisa.usting.com/Base_Note_Oil_s/base_note_oil_s.html#Oakmoss.